Choosing the right belay device

Klättring by Heidi H., 28.5.2024

In collaboration with Petzl
Belay devices act as brakes in climbing ropes, providing friction to help the belayer stop the climber's fall. The basic technique for belaying is the same with all belay devices, but device-specific instructions should always be read carefully because only a properly used belay device is truly safe.

Belay devices with actively assisted braking function
Belay devices with actively assisted braking mechanisms feature a compression system that automatically stops the rope when the climber falls. These devices improve belay comfort and safety, especially when working on routes. Often referred to as "automatic" belay devices, they make lowering the climber smooth and soft, and giving slack to the leader easy. These are the safest belay devices, but they are typically suitable only for single-rope belaying and work best in top-rope and lead climbing.

Manual tube-style belay devices
In fully manual tube-style belay devices, the rope (or two ropes) passes through the belay device and carabiner, creating friction. The device does not automatically brake when the climber falls; instead, the user actively controls the amount of friction needed for belaying or lowering. The basic tube is often the first belay device for top-rope and lead climbing due to its affordability and simplicity, and it works with almost all climbing ropes. The guide-type tube can be attached to an anchor and set up to passively brake, allowing the belayer to secure one or two climbers below. This lightweight, simple, and versatile guide device excels in multipitch trad climbing, as well as lead climbing and top-rope climbing.

Tube-style belay devices with passively assisted braking function
These belay devices are similar to regular tube-style devices in many ways – light and quite simple devices without moving parts. Passively braking belay devices are designed so that as the rope tightens, they automatically shift into a position that locks the rope in place. The passively assisted braking adds extra safety and comfort to the belay. Giving slack to the leader can be a bit tricky at first, but it smoothens with practice. With a few exceptions, these belay devices are generally suitable only for single-rope use and are not designed for downward belaying or lowering. The device works best in top-rope and lead climbing.

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