In co-operation with Petzl
Anthony “Andy” Gullsten, originally from Helsinki, is one of Finland's most versatile and accomplished climbers, known for excelling across bouldering, lead, and sport climbing. A multiple-time Finnish and Nordic bouldering champion, he has also competed at a high level in lead climbing and is among the first Finns to climb sport routes graded 9a.
Beyond competitions, Gullsten has made a strong mark outdoors with hard boulder ascents up to 8C/V15, including the first ascent of Silver Lining in Finland. In addition to bouldering, he has climbed hard sport routes up to at least 9a in Europe, including Le Cadre Nouvelle Version at Céüse — achievements that have quietly helped push the standards and direction of Finnish climbing both indoors and out.
Any tips for getting started with outdoor climbing:
A good first step is to check in with your local climbing gym. Many centres run organised “try-out” or introductory outdoor sessions for beginners, which can be an easy and safe way to take your first steps outside.
If no beginner course is available, try joining a more experienced climber. Climbing with someone knowledgeable allows you to learn informally—by asking questions, watching their techniques, and picking things up along the way.
Another solid option is enrolling in a basic course with a certified instructor. Courses that combine movement skills with essential safety knowledge provide a strong foundation. Your local climbing centre can usually point you toward reputable options.
What equipment do I need for outdoor climbing?
Much of the equipment you use outdoors is the same as for indoor climbing: a harness, rope, belay device, and chalk. However, you’ll also need your own set of quickdraws. When sport climbing outside, climbers are responsible for clipping their own quickdraws on the route and removing them afterward, which requires proper knowledge and technique.
Outdoor routes are often equipped only with metal rings at the anchor. Knowing how to safely thread the rope through these anchors is essential for lowering off and retrieving your gear. If you plan to climb outdoors regularly, it can also be useful to carry a connect adjust or a sling, together with a screwgate carabiner like the attache. These can make working at the anchor and threading the rope slightly safer, simpler, and more comfortable when used correctly. A longer, durable rope designed to handle moisture and abrasion is recommended, as outdoor climbing places greater demands on equipment.
Depending on the crag, a helmet is important for protection, and carrying a headlamp in your pack is always a smart precaution in case your day runs longer than planned.
Anthony's tips for a beginner’s kit?
For those just starting out, I recommend from Petzl:
- Helmet: BOREO for men and BOREA for women — lightweight helmets that offer solid protection and comfort.
- Harness: The CORAX series is a great all-round choice, with SAMA and SELENA as good alternatives.
- Belay device: GRIGRI — a proven classic with assisted braking, offering added control when lead climbing. If you do mostly toprope climbing the GRIGRI + is a great choice. It works just like a GRIGRI when lead climbing, but it can be adjusted to make toprope belaying easier, plus it’s got added safety through its anti panic mode.
- Rope: CONTACT 9.8 mm or MAMBO 10.1 mm, both durable and well suited for beginners.
- Quickdraws: SPIRIT EXPRESS, a dependable choice for sport climbing.
For the more experienced and ambitious climber:
- Helmet: SIROCCO — ultralight and ideal for performance-focused climbing.
- Harness: SITTA or HIRUNDOS, designed for comfort and freedom of movement.
- Belay device: GRIGRI remains a top choice. NEOX for lead climbing.
- Chalk bag: SAKAPOCHE, with room for a brush and a separate pocket for sandpaper when working tougher projects.
- Rope: VOLTA 9.2 mm for those looking to save weight without compromising performance.
- Quickdraws: SPIRIT EXPRESS, considered by many to be the gold standard of quickdraws.
- Headlamp: SWIFT LT, perfect for squeezing in that final attempt when daylight runs out.